Chao Phraya River Tour

Question
Gloria Ferrante of Melbourne, Florida writes: I really love your photos of the Buddhist temples in Thailand. Have you and your wife Jarray visited any more Buddhist wats recently Khun Ken?

Answer
That is a very good question Gloria and I am glad you asked. Jarray and I had the opportunity to take an all day river cruise along the Chao Phraya River in Chainart Province recently visiting several temples along the way.


Leaving dock at 9 a.m. and returning at 6:30 p.m., it was an excellent day albeit a long one. The tour cost for an adult was 300 baht (US $7.50) and included a box lunch as well as refreshments and fruit throughout the day. The only downside of the tour was that Thai karaoke was the primary onboard entertainment!


We visited 9 riverside temples (wats) during the day. Most were quaint, local temples that gave you a good flair of the Thai countryside. The grand finale was a visit to the spectacular Wat Thasoong, just downriver from Nakhon Sawan. It is an impressive complex consisting of 3 individual campuses. Each campus featured a central Buddhist wat of a different theme filled with Thai Buddhist statues and sculptures.


The boat ride itself was worth the tour price. Viewing the Thai countryside along the Chao Phraya River was a wonderful and memorable experience; views that you just don’t see from a car or tour bus. Most of the other tour customers were Thai Buddhists and for them the tour was more of a religious experience rather than a touristy one. It was great to interact and learn from them! My limited command of the Thai language was stretched to the breaking point. Fortunately I brought my lovely language teacher with me.

For more tour photos, click on the link to “Chao Phraya River Tour” above and to the right.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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World Class Medical Care

Question
Scott Taillie of Louisville, Kentucky writes: You briefly mentioned in an earlier post that Thailand offers world class medical care in addition to being an exotic vacation destination. My insurance company is refusing to pay for some desperately needed medical procedures and I am seriously thinking of going offshore as an alternative to paying the high costs here. Do you think that Thailand really offers medical care on par with what is found in the U.S. Khun Ken?

Answer
That is a very good question Scott and I am glad you asked. I was diagnosed with degenerative arthritis in my left hip about 10 years ago. The medical consensus was to put up with the aggravation until the pain simply became intolerable; then it would be time for a hip replacement. Time went on, life was good but my hip got progressively worse. In 2006 I decided that I had had enough and it was time for a hip replacement. I contacted my doctor who referred me to a specialist who examined me and took extensive x-rays. His comment was “You don’t have any cartilage left in your hip; you have bone rubbing on bone.” He immediately scheduled me for a hip replacement before any more damage was done.

I contacted my well respected, quality Florida HMO to obtain pre-approval for the operation. They responded that since the degenerative arthritis was a pre-existing condition when I obtained their coverage several years earlier that all I would have to pay was a mere $25,000. They had negotiated rock bottom rates with the participating parties and felt that they were being quite generous in passing these rates on to me. I pointed out that I had been paying them $6,000 per year for 4 years and had never claimed a dime against my coverage. They thanked me profusely for my generosity but reiterated that my share of the hip replacement surgery would be $25,000; take it or leave it. I decided to leave it.

Having traveled to Thailand many times, I was acquainted with the world class medical care that was available in that country. There are many first rate hospitals in Bangkok but the two that I was familiar with were the BNH Hospital and Bumrungrad Hospital. The former had a reputation for very personalized care, the latter a little more assembly-line in nature although still first rate. I chose BNH.

Via e-mail, I contacted Dr Gobchoke Puavivai, head of orthopedic surgery at BNH and informed him of my condition; he asked that I send him my x-rays. Once he studied my x-rays, he e-mailed me back and we set up a date in July for the operation.

Upon arrival in Bangkok in early July I was met by my very lovely Thai fiancé Jarray. We were going to be married later that month but first she would nurse me through the operation. We checked into the Swiss Lodge Hotel which is less than 2 blocks from BNH Hospital.

When we walked in the door of BNH Hospital the next morning, we were greeted by a lovely Thai lady who escorted us to the registration area. She helped us fill out the necessary registration papers and then took us to meet Dr Nopparat Panthongwiriyakul who was to become my personal physician. He gave me a complete physical that morning including extensive laboratory tests. We returned in the afternoon and I received a clean bill of health.

The following day I met Dr Gobchoke. We discussed his credentials and experience with hip replacements. When all of my questions were answered and I was satisfied with his competence, he ordered additional x-rays. Upon their review about 45 minutes later, he recommended a partial hip replacement in that the hip socket was still in good shape; it was the hip ball that had to be replaced. Surgery was scheduled for 10 am the next morning and he asked that we come back at 6 pm that evening to check into our room.

He informed me that 3 orthopedic surgeons would be performing the operation; himself, a senior physician and a junior physician. He also said that I would be put on an antibiotic drip 1 hour before surgery and remain on it for 3 days following. I was then to take an oral antibiotic twice daily for the next month. I was to spend 1 week in the hospital followed by 1 week in outpatient rehab.

Jarray and I checked out of the Swiss Lodge Hotel and returned to BNH that evening. We were immediately escorted to our private room on the 4th floor. I estimated that there were about 10 rooms on the floor with a nursing staff of 20. It appeared that only 3 or 4 of the rooms were occupied.

Our room was one of the smallest but still very nice – about what you would expect from a decent Holiday Inn. The hospital bed was at one end of the room near the windows with a foldout bed/couch for Jarray nearby. The room also had a small dining/writing table with 2 dining chairs, a small refrigerator, more than ample closet space, a TV, high speed Internet access and of course a bathroom with shower. I was issued my hospital garb and we settled in for the night.

Early the next morning Jarray got breakfast but I had to fast. The very attentive nursing staff took my vital signs including blood pressure (which they continued to do every 4 hours until we checked out 6 days later). I was put on an intravenous glucose drip; 1 hour before surgery an antibiotic was added.

At 9:30 I was transferred to a mobile bed and wheeled down to the surgical room. Jarray was allowed to escort me the entire trip and hold my hand. I think she was more nervous than I was. The hospital staff was very supportive and kind to her.

Into the surgical room I went where they prepped me for the big event. They added another line to my glucose/antibiotic drip that had a white fluid running through it. I remember a slight burning sensation in my arm and then the lights went out.

I awoke several hours later back in my hospital room surrounded by Thai angels in white nursing uniforms; Jarray was at my side holding my hand. I passed in and out of consciousness for the rest of the day; they had me on a morphine drip. At one point the senior attending surgeon was there and informed me that the surgery had gone very well. I was to stay in bed for 1 day and then allowed limited mobility with the use of a walker. The morphine drip came out after 2 days but I was given a sedative every night to help me sleep.

The hospital stay was unexpectedly pleasant. Jarray and I received 3 surprisingly delicious meals per day, we had cable TV with HBO and high speed Internet access so I could monitor my business at all hours of the day. On 2 occasions we had to press the bed side nurse’s call button to summon help (both times the Internet connection went down). Both times a nurse responded over the intercom within 20 seconds and had someone in the room within 5 minutes to fix the problem.

During the course of the hospital stay, I was visited every day by both the senior attending orthopedic surgeon and my personal physician who kept me informed of my progress. Additional x-rays were taken that confirmed the operation was a success and went as planned. On the last day in the hospital, we were taken down to the rehabilitation center and introduced to the staff who fitted me with crutches. I was to report every morning for the next week to undergo physical therapy. A representative of the administrative staff stopped in later that day to see if we were satisfied with the service we had received. We were also visited by a representative of the accounting department who reviewed the bill with me in detail. The final tab was $12,500.

In retrospect I have nothing but praise for the BNH medical and administrative staff. From the day they greet you at the door to the day you are discharged, you are treated with the utmost courtesy, respect and kindness only found in traditional Thailand. The English speaking professional medical staff is highly educated and experienced; they are well qualified and equipped to meet your medical needs. The nursing staff takes their mission of mercy very seriously and cuts no corners in making you comfortable and relaxed. Since Jarray and I make our home in Thailand year round, we now regard BNH as “our” hospital and plan annual visits for our yearly checkups. If you find yourself in need of serious medical care, I highly recommend BNH Hospital in Bangkok, Thailand.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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Perspective

Question
Brandon Adams of Cedar, Minnesota writes: I check your blog frequently to see if you have any new postings because I am really fascinated by the country of Thailand. Some of my college friends and I are planning a vacation to Thailand this summer. We have been reading about all the political turmoil in Thailand recently however and wonder if taking a trip there is still a good idea. What do you think Khun Ken?

Answer
That is a very good question Brandon and I am glad you asked. Thailand has been in the news a lot recently starting with the military coup late last year, followed by the terrorist bombings in Bangkok on New Year’s Eve and changes to the country’s visa, currency and investment regulations. Let me see if I can put things into perspective for you.

Do you remember about 10 years ago when the Clinton White House and the Republican controlled Congress could not come to an agreement on a budget? As a result, the U.S. Government technically ran out of operating funds and was forced to shut down many of the branches of government for about 3 months. And do you know what happened to the country? Nothing, absolutely nothing! No one noticed that government bureaucrats did not show up for work.

That same scenario exists in Thailand today. The military overthrew an overly corrupt albeit legally elected democratic government and now rules by their own decree. And do you know what happened to the country? Nothing! That’s right – no one has noticed.

In Thailand the Thais do things in their own way. The country remains fundamentally free and will return to an elected democracy when it is ready. The Thais truly love their king and don’t really care who is running the government.

Here in the province of Chai Nat if it weren’t for the news media, no one would even know that there was a military coup! I was in Bangkok recently on business and the subject of the coup didn’t come up once in a single conversation! The coup was basically a nonevent in most people’s lives.

The New Year’s Eve bombings are another story however. The bombings have rattled the nerves of many people not so much because of the carnage they caused but because of the shroud of mystery that surrounds them. Who is responsible? Was it Thaksin supporters? Was it Muslim terrorists? No one knows or at least no one is talking. People are afraid of the unknown and the bombings have many people in Bangkok walking on egg shells. But people also have short memories and life will be back to normal in short order…until the next bomb goes off. My guess is that the bombing was not an isolated incident and will probably repeat itself. Thailand has just joined the 21st century, terrorists and all.

The Thai government has recently changed the way it regulates tourist visas – actually they just started to enforce the existing regulations that were already on the books and no longer turn a blind eye to the blatant abuses. This change does not affect legitimate tourists. A 30 day tourist visa is easy to obtain and was meant to let a foreigner into the country for 30 days…duh. Some people abused the tourist visa for years at a time by stepping out of the country for a few hours every 30 days and then returning to start the 30 day clock all over again. The Thai government has put a stop to that abuse.

The Thai government has shot itself in the foot several times recently by imposing currency controls and then partially reversing itself; by imposing asset ownership controls and then partially reversing itself. If Thailand wants to be a player in the world economy, then they will have to open up their country to foreign capital and leave it open.

There are plenty of places in the world that welcome foreign capital; it doesn’t have to come to Thailand. India is a case in point. India did not see substantial economic prosperity until it got serious about opening up the country to foreign capital with little or no restrictions. If Thailand does not do the same, I am afraid that they will only have themselves to blame for their economic malaise.

The recent changes to currency and capital controls will not affect the tourist industry. Tourism is big bussiness in Thailand and the government is not going to do anything to change that. Tourists are still welcome with open arms. It is the investors and the speculators that they attract that the country is having second thoughts about.

So Brandon, my answer to your question is yes; you and your friends should still come to Thailand for your vacation. The military coup, visa changes and business climate changes do not affect you. But the terrorists are as real in Bangkok as they are in New York, so be as vigilant in Thailand as you would be anywhere in the world. I hope you and your friends have a wonderful adventure.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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Wat Muang

Question
Joan Weinert of Palm Bay, Florida writes: I really love your Thai photos especially the ones of the Buddhist Wats. Have you visited any more Wats recently Khun Ken?

Answer
That is a very good question Joan and I am glad you asked. Jarray and I had the opportunity to visit the Wat Muang near the city of Ang Thong in South Central Thailand recently while visiting her sister Loem in Ayutthaya. It is a fairly large Wat with expansive, landscaped grounds with many small restaurants and food & souvenir vendors. No price gouging here – the Buddhist monks control the prices of everything sold on the grounds so that visitors will be encouraged to return often.

The Wat boasts one of the largest statues of Buddha in Thailand – over 90 feet tall! Unfortunately it is undergoing restoration and was closed to visitors when we were there.

The main temple on the grounds has walls covered with small glass mirrors inside and out which gives it a spectacular effect. The main temple also houses a wide array of Thai Buddhist statues.

A significant portion of the grounds is devoted to life size characters meant to dissuade visitors from an evil life and encourage “jai dee” or glad heart through stories and fables. Below are two giant characters depicting the entrance to hell for those of “jai dum” or black heart.

If you happen to find yourself near the Thai city of Ang Thong in the province of the same name, I encourage you to take an hour or two to explore the grounds of Wat Muang. For more Wat Muang photos, click on the photo link at the top right of this page.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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Living in Thailand

Question
Mike Lucci of San Diego, California writes: I just returned from a fantastic vacation in Thailand and am seriously considering moving there. Tell me Khun Ken, what is it really like to live in the country of Thailand?

Answer
That is a good question Mike and I am glad you asked. Vacationing in Thailand is a fantastic experience. Both the country and culture are exotic, the weather very pleasant albeit on the warm side and for the most part the people are very friendly. It is a safe and relatively inexpensive vacation spot that most people only dream about. For the adventurous it is a locale worth visiting many times over.

Vacationing in Thailand and living in Thailand are two different things however. For the expat from the west, living in Thailand is extremely rewarding but presents its own set of challenges. First and foremost is the language barrier; Thai is a difficult language to learn with its own alphabet and nuances. To make the challenge even harder, the Thai alphabet does not readily translate into the western alphabet so several different translations of Thai words abound. To make life even more challenging, the Thais do not speak Thai the way it is taught so learning to speak Thai in a school based setting or from a self-taught CD or tape is not as easy as one would expect. For instance – Thais have difficulty pronouncing the “R” sound so most just skip it or substitute the “L” sound in its place. When you pronounce a Thai word containing an R, if you want to be understood you better pronounce it like an L; you won’t learn that from a CD or in a school.

While all Thais are required to take 2 years of English in school, the Thai education system is based on memorization, not on the development of original thought. So yes, many Thais know a few English words but no, few can put them into sentences. While you can manage to muddle through on the memorization of some key phrases as a tourist, learning to read, write and speak Thai if you live here is highly desirable.

Thailand is not a 3rd world country but is now classified as a “developing” country. That means that a lot of the infrastructure that we have come to expect in the west is present in Thailand but that doesn’t mean that it always works. Yes, Thailand has a well developed road system; no the roads are not all in good shape and usable year round. Yes, Thailand has public sanitation and water; no the bathrooms don’t always work and for the most part the water is used for washing and bathing not for cooking or drinking. Yes, Thailand has broadband Internet; no the Internet systems don’t always work going down several times per day. The same applies to the electrical and phone systems.

When you live in Thailand you come to realize that you are not going to change the country; the county is going to change you. In the west there are X and Y type personalities; Thailand has only the Y type. In the west a hard charging, take no prisoners, do not accept no for an answer type of person is often admired and rises to the top in business. In Thailand that type of person is tolerated but not appreciated and quite often shunned. In the west honesty, truth and integrity are respected virtues; in Thailand tolerance and the ability to foster harmony are respected virtues. For an expat to remain sane in Thailand, he has to learn to accept things that he cannot change.

And smile; no matter what – smile. A farang (pronounced falang – see above) is always being observed. If one wishes to be admired and held in high status, then one will learn to smile, tone down their volume and live life in the happy mode. And keep your money in your pocket. Thais know that farangs have more money than they do so don’t go around shoving it in their face. Spend your money wisely, be generous when need be but don’t make a spectacle of yourself. Living a life of subdued elegance is a wise route to take. Let the Thais wear the flashy gold jewelry and drive the big fancy cars (that they can’t afford). If you want social status you will earn it by taking care of those around you and extending courtesy and respect to all.

So why would a westerner want to live in Thailand? It’s the women stupid! (I am assuming that the westerner is male.) I’m not talking about fast and easy and sleazy; I’m talking about feminine and self assured. The kind of woman who can dress conservatively but turn heads as she walks down the street. The kind of woman who never screams or shouts but still gets her own way. The kind of woman who will protect her husband and family with every ounce of energy in her 100 lb body. The kind of woman who can melt your heart with just one glance. The kind of woman you would want to grow old with.

Thai wives tend to hold very traditional family values. The husband is the head of the family but the wife is the glue that binds it together. They are very careful with money. They are good cooks and prefer to cook their family’s own food rather than going to a restaurant. They drink alcohol in moderation if at all and do not smoke. They pray to Buddha before going to sleep. Taking good care of their family and especially their husband is a matter of pride; they see no shame in being a good wife.

I am very glad that I have found my Thai woman; I hope that you find yours.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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Thailand Vacation

Question
Ed Duffy of Palm Bay, Florida writes: I just read in the Bangkok Post that Thailand has been declared a best travel destination in terms of value for money. Thailand emerged as winner in the value-for-money category in a second annual travel survey of more than 1,500 respondents worldwide. My wife Karen and I are thinking about visiting Thailand in the near future. Tell us Khun Ken, when would be the best time of the year to go and what sites should we see.

Answer
That is a very good question Ed and I am glad you asked. Last year over 11 million tourists visited Thailand and stayed an average of 8 days. From the U.S. it takes about 20 to 24 hours of travel time to reach Thailand (with plane changes and airport layovers) unless you fly Thai Airways out of New York on their nonstop, 15 hour direct flight to Bangkok. Once here, you can count on at least a day or two to recover from jet lag so I would recommend devoting a minimum of 2 weeks to Thailand in total – 3 weeks would be ideal.

You will need a valid passport to visit Thailand; a 30 day tourist visa is automatically granted to you at no charge upon arrival. Thailand has a brand new airport - the Bangkok International Suvarnabhumi Airport so getting in and out of Thailand has never been easier.

The year-round weather in Thailand is similar to the weather in Florida in the summer – hot and humid. The “high season” in Thailand coincides with the dry season, roughly November thru April. The prices at the top resorts are quite expensive during that period but fall dramatically during the other times of the year and some real bargains can be found.

There are several major attractions in Bangkok that are a must see – the Royal Grand Palace with the Wat Phra Kaeo containing the country’s most sacred Jade Buddha, the adjacent Wat Pho with its giant reclining Buddha and the Wat Traimit featuring a 7 ½ ton solid gold Buddha (hidden from the Japanese during WWII, encased in plaster and buried). Bangkok with its 10 million inhabitants is a fun, vibrant city comparable to New York. Don’t miss the night-time bazaar in Lumpini Park with its giant ferris wheel, food stalls and of course merchants galore.

Thailand’s top resort area is Patong Bay on Phuket Island in the southern portion of Thailand. Patong has completely recovered from the tsunami of 2 years ago and the resorts are open and ready for action. Patong Bay offers beautiful white beaches, pristine crystal clear water and an active nightlife.

Pattaya, only about a 2 hour drive south of Bangkok, is also a popular coastal town but the beaches pale in comparison to Phuket. Also, Pattaya is not what I would call a “family” destination having its modern day origins from the many GI’s who visited while on RR during the Vietnam era (yes, I was one of them). Pattaya still primarily caters to the adult male visitor.

I think that you would be making a mistake however if you limit your visit to Bangkok and the beach resorts – there is so much more to see. Air, rail and bus transportation within Thailand is safe, readily available and modestly priced. I would recommend at least 2 days exploring the temple ruins in Ayutthaya (the historical capital of Thailand – the city that Yule Brenner had to evacuate towards the end of the movie The King and I) and 3 or 4 days in the cooler, northern city of Chiang Mai.

But there is still much more. If you are a little more daring, rent a car and go exploring but remember we drive on the left side of the road here. An International Driving Permit (IDP) can easily be obtained by anyone with a valid drivers license for a $10 fee at any AAA office before you leave home - and I recommend that you do so. That way you can stop and explore the many smaller cities and towns – visit their local temples and shop in their farmer’s markets. And don’t worry, even the smallest towns have ATM machines and 7-11 stores. The Thai people are very friendly and will give you a big smile as a warm welcome. They don’t call Thailand the Land of Smiles for nothing you know.

The food in Thailand is world renown but in my opinion the best Thai food is not found in the larger restaurants but at the many curbside food vendors. Many Thais, especially in the cities live in 1 or 2 room apartments with no kitchens so they don’t cook. They go out everyday and eat at food stalls right on the sidewalk or in very small local restaurants. A delicious lunch for 2 can be had for 50 baht - $1.25 U.S.! And don’t worry about the food being too spicy – with most Thai dishes you add the amount of spice you want to suit your own tastes right at the table. Don’t know what to order – just smile and point to what someone else is eating. That way you will get a real local taste.

A good source for more information on vacationing in Thailand is the official Tourism Authority of Thailand web site.

Not to be overlooked is travel to Thailand for medical and dental care. The cost of medical care in the U.S. has skyrocketed over the last 30 years, due in no small part to the U.S. legal system and its trial lawyers. Bangkok is becoming one of the top destinations in the world for high quality, low cost medical care – medical care comparable to that of the U.S. in quality but at a third of the price! Two of the best hospitals in Bangkok are the BNH Hospital and the Bumrungrad Hospital. Both hospitals offer a variety of medical packages at very reasonable prices. Many people come to Bangkok every year just to get their annual medical checkup!

If you happen to be driving through Chai Nat Province while in Thailand for whatever reason, stop in to see Jarray and me and say “Sawàdee khup”. We'll have a cold Singha waiting for you.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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Flowers of Thailand

Question
Judy Derek of Farmington Hills, Michigan writes: My husband Joe and I love flowers, especially orchids. Your photos taken at the orchid farm in Chiang Mai are gorgeous. You take wonderful photographs Khun Ken but tell me the truth, do you digitally enhance your photos?

Answer
That is a very good question Judy and I am glad you asked. As you already know, no camera can adequately compete with the human eye when it comes to beauty, not even the most advanced digital SLR. However in the proper hands a good camera can come close. While many photographers do resort to digital enhancement to compensate for their shortcomings, I have taken the time to perfect my skills and do not need to resort to cheap trickery. I can understand why some might succumb to the temptation of digital enhancement but I promise you that all of my photos are true and unenhanced….as true and unenhanced as my fish stories!

The city of Chiang Mai in the highlands of northern Thailand has hot, moist days and cool nights - perfect for growing orchids. There are many commercial orchid farms in Chiang Mai. Last year Jarray and I visited one of the most popular - the Suan Sai Nam Phung Orchid Garden about a half hours drive outside of Chiang Mai where you can stroll leisurely through the flowers. Never have I seen such an array of so many beautiful orchids.

Thailand is in many respects a paradise full of beautiful flowers with over 1,000 species of orchids alone. Many Thai households, businesses and wats have cultivated beautiful flower beds with surrounding flowering shrubs. Beautiful flowers can even be seen growing in the wild just driving down the road. To see our photos, click on Flowers of Thailand up top and to the right.

Until next time – Mai Pen Rai

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